This application claims the priority of Japanese Patent Application No. 11-156792 filed on Jun. 3, 1999 and Japanese Patent Application No.2000-95024 filed on Mar. 30, 2000, which are incorporated herein by reference.
The present invention relates to a hairdressing cosmetic preparation and a hairdressing method using the same; and, in particular, to an improvement in a setting agent thereof.
Among hair cosmetic preparations conventionally in wide use, hairdressing cosmetic preparation for hairdressing and set-keeping include those in which a hairdressing oil component such as polypropylene oxide monobutyl ether, polypropylene oxide glyceryl ether, or their phosphate ester or salt is dissolved in or emulsified with water, a lower alcohol, their mixed solvent, or the like; those in which a high-molecular compound having a coat-forming property and a setting property is dissolved in water, a lower alcohol, their mixed solvent, or the like; and so forth.
Although the hair applied with the former hairdressing cosmetic preparations compounded with the hairdressing oil component is free of stiffness, there have been problems that the hair glares is so sticky that its touch is not so favorable.
On the other hand, although the latter hairdressing cosmetic preparations compounded with the high-molecular compound are excellent in their action of securing hairs to each other and keeping their setting, there have been problems that the hair applied with the hairdressing cosmetic preparations has stickiness and is not smooth in the process of applying, drying and finishing, and become severely stiff after drying.
When a large amount of a polymer as a setting agent is compounded into the preparation in order to enhance its hair setting effect, in particular, combing has become more difficult upon blowing by use of a drier or the like, and stiffness in hair or separation (flaking) of the setting agent has occurred after the drying.
For overcoming such problems, improvements have been proposed by compounding various additives such as polyhydric alcohols, their derivatives, lanolin, and esters. However, the setting effect may deteriorate along with their addition, so that there have been cases where satisfactory hairdressing preparations are not obtained. Similarly, although the touch of hair improves when the amount of the polymer used as a setting agent is lowered, hairdressing preparations satisfactory in terms of the setting effect have not been obtained.
The present invention is performed in view of the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and it is an object of the present invention to provide a hairdressing cosmetic preparation having a favorable touch and an excellent setting effect.
The inventors have carried out diligent studies in order to achieve the above-mentioned object and, as a result, have found that a favorable touch and a high setting effect can be obtained if a polymer which becomes to gel upon heating is compounded as a hairdressing effective component into a hairdressing cosmetic preparation and heated with a dryer or the like when applied to hair, thereby accomplishing the present invention.
Namely, a hairdressing cosmetic preparation in accordance with the present invention is characterized by comprising a heat-gelling polymer which becomes to gel upon heating.
In the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, it is preferable that the heat-gelling polymer has a gelling temperature of 60xc2x0 C. or higher.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, the heat-gelling polymer is preferably a polysaccharide.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, the heat-gelling polymer is preferably xcex2-1,3-glucan.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, the heat-gelling polymer is preferably xcex2-1,3-xylan.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, the heat-gelling polymer is preferably curdlan.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, it is preferable that the heat-gelling polymer which is powder in an ungelled state and/or in a dissolved neutralized gel state is dispersed into the cosmetic preparation.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, it is preferable that water is further contained therein.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, it is preferable that the heat-gelling polymer is 0.001% to 10% by weight in the cosmetic preparation.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, it is preferable that a fine particle powder is contained therein.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, the fine particle powder is preferably fine particle titanium dioxide.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, the fine particle powder is preferably fine particle silica.
Also, in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation, the fine particle powder is preferably silica-surface-treated fine particle titanium dioxide.
A hairdressing method in accordance with the present invention is characterized by comprising the steps of shaping hair while applying thereto a composition comprising a heat-gelling polymer, and then fixating the hair with a hot wind.
In the method, it is preferable that water exists upon application to the hair and the hot wind is 80xc2x0 C. or higher.
The hairdressing cosmetic preparation of the present invention includes a heat-gelling polymer which becomes to gel upon heating. After the hairdressing cosmetic preparation of the present invention is applied to hair, the aimed hair style is fixated with a heat from a drier or the like.
The heat-gelling polymer used in the present invention gels at a heating temperature of 60xc2x0 C. or higher. Examples thereof include heat-coagulable proteins, collagen, heat-coagulable starches, and the like. The molecular weight is, but not limited thereto, within the range from 10,000 to 10,000,000 normally. Among them, preferable are heat-gelling polysaccharides, and more preferable is xcex2-1,3-glucan or xcex2-1,3-xylan.
Further, in xcex2-1,3-glucan, straight-chain type curdlan is the most preferable from the viewpoint of its stability in supply and its cost. When xcex2-1,3-glucan other than curdlan, for example, such as scleroglucan, sclerotan, schizophyllan, lentinan, paramylon, callose, laminaran, or the like is processed by such a method as mild Smith decomposition (Polym J. 13(12) 1135-1143 (1981)), a polymer having properties similar to those of curdlan can be obtained.
More specifically, curdlan is a kind of polysaccharides produced by a microorganism (Alcaligenes faecalis var. myxogenes, various strains of Agrobacterium, or Rhizobium). Its constituent sugar is D-glucose alone, and 99% of its glucoside bonds is xcex2-1,3-bond.
Known as a method for preparing a dispersion is one comprising the steps of adding water to curdlan powder and vigorously stirring the mixture by use of a high-speed homogenizer, cutter mixer, or the like or the steps of adding curdlan to warm water of about 55xc2x0 C. while stirring it with a hand, a propeller stirrer, or the like and then cooling the mixture, thereby yielding a uniform dispersion of ungelled powder. A gel is formed when this aqueous dispersion is heated.
Also, without heating, a gel can be formed if curdlan is once dissolved in an alkaline aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide or the like and then is neutralized by addition of a neutralizing equivalent amount of an acid such as hydrochloric acid. In this specification, such a gel is referred to as dissolved neutralized gel. A stable dispersion can be obtained if this dissolved neutralized gel is vigorously stirred by a homogenizer or the like so as to be finely crushed. A gel is formed when this dispersion is heated. Here, a gel, that has a similar nature with the dissolved neutralized gel, can also be made when curdlan dissolved in the alkaline aqueous solution is neutralized with carbonic acid gas or the like while standing still, or when the alkali such as sodium hydroxide is eliminated by use of a dialysis membrane. A gel, that has a similar nature with the dissolved neutralized gel, can also be made when the hydroxyl group dissociated upon addition of a cation such as calcium or magnesium ion to the alkaline aqueous solution forms a cross-linked structure with the cation.
Gels obtained upon heating can be roughly divided into two types according to their processing temperature. Namely, they are thermally irreversible gels obtained by heating at 80xc2x0 C. or higher and thermally reversible gels obtained by cooling after heating at about 60xc2x0 C., which can be called as high-set gels and low-set gels, respectively. Hairdressing cosmetic preparations containing the high-set gels tend to exhibit a slightly lower hairdressing power. The low-set gels are sufficiently usable although their effects are inferior to those of ungelled powder or dissolved neutralized gel.
In a particularly preferred example of the present invention, a hairdressing cosmetic preparation including an ungelled powder or dissolved neutralized gel of curdlan is applied on hair and is heated and dried with a hot wind at a low-set gelling temperature (60xc2x0 C.) or higher, more preferably at a high-set gelling temperature (80xc2x0 C.) or higher, whereby excellent hairdressing power and set-keeping power can be obtained.
Polymers gelling at a temperature less than 60xc2x0 C. are unfavorable not only in that they may gel in containers when placed under severe conditions to be disadvantageous in their use, but also in that their effects may not fully be exhibited when applied on hair.
In the present invention, one or more kinds of the above-mentioned heat-gelling polymers may be used. The amount thereof is 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 1% by weight, with respect to the total amount of the hairdressing cosmetic preparation. The hairdressing power and hairdressing-keeping power may be insufficient if the amount is less than 0.001% by weight, whereas unfavorable stiffness and flaking may occur if the amount exceeds 10% by weight.
Also, the hairdressing cosmetic preparation of the present invention achieves a light finish, and does not exhibit stiffness, coarseness, or oiliness even after drying, thereby giving a very favorable touch to the hair as if nothing is applied thereon. On the other hand, its feel of use is so light upon styling that hair may not be caught by combs, brushes, and fingers very well. For improving the feel of use of the hairdressing cosmetic preparation in accordance with the present invention upon styling without deteriorating its favorable feel of finish, compounding a fine particle powder therein is effective. If the fine particle powder is contained therein, hair will appropriately be caught by combs and the like upon styling, so that operations such as straightening unruly hair, straight blow, shaping blow, and the like become much easier, thus remarkably improving usability.
The fine particle powder preferably has an average particle size of 0.001 to 0.15 xcexcm from the viewpoint of easiness in styling, feel of finish, and the like. A powder having a pigment class particle size of 0.2 xcexcm or greater may be inferior in the touch after finishing although the usability upon styling can be improved thereby.
As the fine particle powder, any of inorganic and organic powders can be used, and two or more kinds thereof can also be used in combination. Examples of inorganic powder include talc, mica, kaolin, sericite, silica, titanium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate, calcined plaster, calcium phosphate, fluorine apatite, hydroxy apatite, ceramic powder, metallic soap, zinc oxide, and the like. Examples of organic powder include nylon powder, polyethylene powder, cellulose powder, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powder, polyamide resin powder, polystyrene powder, and the like. These fine particle powders may be subjected to known surface treatments with metallic soap, silicone, cation, dextrin, fatty acids, alumina, silica, fluorides, and the like.
The amount of the fine particle powder is 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 2% by weight in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation. The usability upon styling may not improve if the amount is too small, whereas the feel of finish may deteriorate if the amount is too large.
The fine particle powder of the present invention is preferably fine particle titanium dioxide or fine particle silica or their surface-treated powder. Particularly preferred is fine particle titanium dioxide having been surface-treated with silica. Since the surface electric charge of the silica-surface-treated fine particle titanium dioxide is adjusted by silica, they can stably disperse on a primary particle level in a neutral region, thus yielding a very high transparency. Such silica-surface-treated fine particle titanium dioxide is also known as super fine particle titanium dioxide, and is usually used as its aqueous dispersion (titania sol) for compounding.
Without being restricted in particular, the hairdressing cosmetic preparation of the present invention can be any form, and can be manufactured by a common method while further containing various kinds of ingredients which are usually compounded into hairdressing cosmetic preparations within a range not deteriorating the effect of the present invention in addition to the above-mentioned essential ingredients. For example, hairdressing cosmetic preparations such as hair cream, hair lotion, a foamy hairdressing preparation like a hair foam, hair gel, hair mist (non-gas type), hair spray, hair liquid, and hair wax can be provided.
Examples of known ingredients commonly used in hairdressing cosmetic preparations such as hairdyes and hairdressing preparations include, as alcohol, not only aliphatic alcohols which are hard to dissolve in water, such as n-butyl alcohol, sec-butyl alcohol, cyclohexanol, butyl cellosolve, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxy ethanol, and phenyl ethanol, but also aromatic alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, and the like.
Examples of pH adjusters include organic acids such as citric acid, malic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, formic acid, and levulinic acid, and inorganic acids such as phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid.
Further examples of additives include humectants such as glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronic acid salts, diglycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, sorbitol, maltitol, pyrrolidone carboxylate, lactose, and olygosaecharides; oily ingredients such as lanolin, squalane, liquid paraffin, vaseline, higher fatty acids, triglyceride, and ester oils; and silicones such as methylphenyl polysiloxane, dimethyl siloxane/methyl(polyoxyethylene) siloxane copolymer, rubber-like dimethyl polysiloxane, and amino-modified polysiloxane.
Also, protein hydrolysates such as collagen hydrolysate, keratin hydrolysate, silk protein hydrolysate, elastin hydrolysate, and bean protein hydrolysate and their quaternary salts can be compounded.
As an emulsifier, other amphipatic materials and surfactants can also be used.
Examples of nonionic surfactants include polyoxyethylene type surfactants such as polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene polyhydric alcohol fatty acid partial esters, and polyoxyethylene hardened castor oil derivatives; alkyl polyglycosidcs such as octylpolyglycoside; polyglycerin type surfactants such as polyglycerin fatty acid esters and polyglycerin alkyl ethers; sugar alcohol ethers such as maltitol hydroxyalkyl ethers; and fatty acid diethanol amides.
Examples of anionic surfactants include higher fatty acid salts, alkyl benzene sulfonic acid salts, phosphoric acid esters, alkyl sulfuric acid salts, alkyl sulfuric acid ester salts, polyoxyethylene alkyl sulfuric acid ester salts, and the like. Also, cationic surfactants such as amino acids, alkyl trimethyl ammonium salts, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium salts, and alkyl dimethylamine oxide, and other surfactants can be used as appropriate.
Further, for example, lower alcohols such as butanol, propanol, and isopropanol; higher alcohols such as 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, 2-decyltetradecyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol; and the like can be compounded.
Examples of sequestering agents and antiseptics include hydroxyethane disulfonic acid salts, phenacetin, EDTA and its salts, parabens, and stannic acid salts. Examples of high-molecular compounds include poly(dimethylallyl ammonium halide) type cationic polymers; cationic polymers of a condensate type of tauroylamine obtained from polyethylene glycol, epichlorohydrin, propyleneamine, and tallow fatty acid; cationic polymers of a condensate type of cocoylamine obtained from polyethylene glycol, epichlorohydrin, propyleneamine, and coconut fatty acid; cationic polymers of a vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylamino methacrylate copolymer type; and cationic polymers of cellulose ether type containing quaternary nitrogen.
Also, thickeners such as carboxy methyl cellulose, carboxy vinyl polymer, hydroxy ethyl cellulose, hydroxy propyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, xanthan gum, carrageenan, alginic acid salts, pectin, furcellaran, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, agar powder, bentonite, cross-linking polyacrylic acid salts, and the like can also be used within a range where the effect of the present invention is not deteriorated.
As resins, nonion resins such as polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, and polyvinyl alcohol; anion resins such as acrylic resin alkanol amine solutions, acrylic acid ester/methacrylic acid ester copolymer, acrylic acid ester/acrylamide/acrylic acid copolymer, vinyl methyl ether/butyl malate copolymer, and chloric o-[2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonio) propyl]hydroxy ethyl cellulose; cationic resins such as vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate cationized copolymer; and amphoteric resins such as hydroxypropyl acrylate/butylaminoethyl methacrylate/acrylic acid octylamide copolymer and N-methacryloyl oxyethyl N,N-dimethyl ammonium-xcex1-N-methyl carboxy betaine/alkyl methacrylate copolymer can also be compounded. In the above, acrylic resin alkanol amine solutions, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate cationized copolymer and N-methacryloyl oxyethyl N,N-dimethyl ammonium-xcex1-N-methyl carboxy betaine/alkyl methacrylate copolymer are preferable. If resins are compounded, then the usability upon styling can be improved to a certain extent. While hair continuously has favorable tension from the start of blowing to the end thereof in the case of fine particle powder, tension is felt when hair is dried to a certain extent in the case of resins.
In addition, perfumes, medicaments, and the like can selectively be used as required.
Also, not only organic and inorganic pigments but also lakes may be compounded in the hairdressing cosmetic preparation of the present invention within a range where the effect of the present invention is not deteriorated.
Examples of organic pigments include azo type pigments, indigo type pigments, and phthalocyanine type pigments. Examples of inorganic pigments include red oxide of iron, yellow oxide of iron, black oxide of iron, chromium oxide, ultramarine, iron blue, carbon black, and the like. Examples of lakes include not only lake pigments such as Red Nos. 202, 204, 206, 207, and 220, but also dye lakes such as aluminum lake.
In the case where the hairdressing cosmetic preparation of the present invention is formed into hair spray, liquefied petroleum gas (L.P.G.) mainly composed of propane, butane, and isobutane; a pressurized gas such as dimethyl ether, carbonate gas, or nitrogen gas; and the like can be used alone or in their mixture as a propellant. Among them, liquefied petroleum gas (L.P.G.) is preferred in particular. The ratio between the stock solution of the hairdressing cosmetic preparation in accordance with the present invention and the propellant is preferably such that the propellant is 95 to 5 parts by weight with respect to 5 to 95 parts by weight of the stock solution.